Yulara

Yulara is the town near the rock. We stay in a place called Alice Springs Resort. In the past it was called Uluru Resort but the name Alice Springs had to be resurrected. Marketing.

 

Some women lie on the grass near our hotel displaying their dot paintings. Selling traditional genuine aboriginal art. No upkeep. Many tourists bypass them. They must make a lot of money.

 

We buy a piece of art from some ladies on the grass. They are bashful and quiet. Not selling aggressively.

Me: Tell me about this picture.

 

Beryl: This picture of a woman who sees  a goanna.

 

Me: Is that good?

 

Beryl: Yes, very good. Tastes good.

 

Me: And this picture?

 

Beryl: This picture emus.

 

Me: Do they taste good.

 

Beryl smiles: Yes.

 

We are upset when we hear a lady asking for a better price. Sounds disgusting. Wheeling and dealing and bargaining is not part of their culture. 

 

We pay the lady the asking price of $50. We tick the box that says. We are good people.

 

Walk back to our hotel and then I realise I should have taken a photo. I return to where Beryl was. She is gone. The lady remaining says Beryl has gone to the supermarket.

 

The lady says I can take her photo because we just bought a picture.

 

We gave Beryl $50 and she rushes straight to the supermarket tells me they don’t make that much money.

 

Late at night I lie on my hotel bed. Abruptly the quiet hum of the fridge is drowned out by a screaming woman. She sounds drunk. She screams, yells, cries  and bang on the door. No reply from inside the hotel room. Just as suddenly as it started it stops.

 

Next morning a tourist says: They are not meant to buy alcohol but they always seem to get alcohol.

 

In Yulara is a cafe with a sign saying they are training indigenous staff. Everything is pretty much normal. Banana bread, hot cross buns, toasted sandwiches and pies.

 

Lunch we go upmarket and receive the menu.

 

4 pages of food. Dishes include wattle seeds and saltbush.

 

12 pages of drinks. Drinks are wines, beers, liqueurs, rum, gin, vodka, bourbon, whiskey, aperitif, brandy, cognac.

 

Us tourist lounge in our hats, flynets, shorts, sunglasses, walking boots, backpacks and cameras. We all fiddle on our phones and sip water. The women all wear light dresses or shorts. No jeans. Nothing scruffy. No signs of physical activity. No sweat, stains or dust stains.

 

Us tourist always  greet other tourists. Where are you from? What are you doing today? What did you do yesterday?

 

Behind us on the wall are dot paintings and a sign saying No Photography please.